Navratri is celebrated in various unique ways across different regions of India. While the Durga Puja in West Bengal and Garba in Gujarat are widely known, have you ever wondered how Navratri is celebrated in Goa? Goa’s Navratri is distinct and is renowned for its Makharotsav. This festival is celebrated across many temples in Goa, especially in the temples of Ponda, for all nine days of Navratri.
The makhar is a swing-like structure made of a wooden frame. It is suspended by a chain attached to an iron ring on the ceiling. The makhar is beautifully decorated with colorful paper and flowers. During the nine days of Navratri, the deity is seated in the makhar, adorned with different ornaments each day. Every day, the deity is depicted riding on different symbolic vehicles like an elephant, horse, tiger, or garuda (eagle). While seated in the makhar, the goddess is worshipped with rituals that include playing traditional instruments like dhol, taashe, shemel, and Shehnai.
The atmosphere during the festival is mesmerizing. The dim lighting, the goddess glowing in the light of the makhar, and the powerful sound of the musical instruments all combine to create an electrifying experience. This entire ceremony is so enchanting that it often feels as if the goddess herself is enjoying the gentle swings of the makhar right before your eyes.
The origin of Makharotsav can be traced back to the Portuguese era. During this time, many temples from the Salcete, Tiswadi, and Bardez talukas were relocated to the Ponda taluka. The Makharotsav symbolizes this historical migration of deities.
It is not just the goddess’s temples that celebrate Makharotsav, but also temples of gods like Mangesh and Ramnath. While some temples celebrate Makharotsav for all nine days from Ghatasthapana to Navami, others may celebrate it for only five days or from the fifth day onward.
Each temple has its unique style of swinging the makhar. For example, in the Mahalasa Narayani temple at Mardol, the Makharotsav is celebrated for all nine days. The Trimurti on the sixth day and the Panchmurti on the ninth day are special attractions here. The gentle swing of the makhar gradually picks up speed, accompanied by an increase in the tempo of the music, creating a deeply spiritual atmosphere that is beyond words.
Experiencing the makhar at the Mangeshi temple is equally thrilling. Initially, the makhar swings slowly, but as it tilts to the left or right, it begins to swing rapidly in both directions, giving an exhilarating experience. The concentration, skill, and strength of the priests who swing the makhar is truly unparalleled.
In the Devaki Krishna temple, the goddess Devaki is depicted holding baby Krishna in her lap, seated in the makhar.
Every temple’s makhar is different in size and decoration style, and each has its own unique method of swinging it.
The grandeur of the music accompanying the makhar at the Mahalasa temple captivates everyone, while at the Mangeshi temple, after the makhar has been swung, the priests of all ages come together and chant mantras in a high-pitched voice, offering a spiritually uplifting experience.
Such delightful experiences can also be witnessed in other temples. The Makharotsav at the Vijayadurga temple in Keri is celebrated uniquely in the month of Margashirsha.
This is the true essence of Goa and its deep-rooted traditions. To witness this rich heritage, one must visit Goa at least once during this vibrant festival.
